Seeking better hair health? Start at the scalp. Michelle Blaisure, product and technical specialist for Bosley Professional Strength, stresses the importance of a solid background on scalp health, since the scalp skin is the “soil” from which hair grows. “Salon professionals are often the first line of defense when it comes to common scalp issues that can contribute to hair thinning and loss,” Blaisure explains. “They’re given some basic information about scalp issues, such as dry scalp and dandruff, during cosmetology training, so they should be able to recognize some of the more common problems.”

The Importance of ID

Bridgette Hill, aka “The Scalp Therapist,” notes that stylists can address superficial scalp abnormalities, but they should also work in tandem with medical pros—a trichologist, dermatologist or doctor. “Simply by seeing and feeling the scalp, stylists can communicate any changes to clients and aid in identifying their historical scalp/hair routines and habits,” Hill details. “It would be irresponsible to expect the salon professional to medically identify, diagnose or treat conditions of the skin and scalp, but the stylist can present proper scalp analysis and incorporate scalp care to aid in prevention and maintain the health of the clients’ scalp and hair.” Alternatively, Blaisure adds, for more in-depth knowledge—or to specialize in hair and scalp health—trichology certification is a great option.

In reality, a licensed cosmetologist can treat only two scalp conditions in a salon setting once a condition has been diagnosed: dandruff and mild seborrheic dermatitis. “Always put on gloves if you suspect any kind of scalp lesion or debris as some scalp conditions are highly contagious, and practice proper state- issued sanitation rules and regulations,” Hill advises. “While all other conditions must be managed by a dermatologist or medical professional, a stylist should acknowledge any changes in the client’s scalp and hair and engage in proper consultations to address any concern in its infancy before it can become a larger threat to the overall scalp and hair health.” For example, is the client complaining of a scaly, sore or itchy scalp? Are these symptoms visible to the naked eye?

Tony Odisho, president and CEO of Tony Odisho Extensions, agrees that part of the stylist’s job is to examine the scalp as the growing ground for healthy hair— looking for anything from potentially cancerous lesions to excess buildup. “We may see itching, flaking, scaling, allergic reactions or infections, and we may be able to recommend products such as clarifying or anti-dandruff shampoo in certain cases,” he says. “But it’s very important to build a relationship with a dermatologist so you can refer the client when you spot problems.”

Generally, Hill notes several scalp conditions to watch out for, and their symptoms:

• Dandruff: Skin cells of the scalp shed at a faster rate than normal, creating buildup.
• Seborrheic dermatitis: Occurring in oily skin areas other than just the scalp, symptoms are itchiness, as well as scaly, red skin that may occur with dandruff.
• Psoriasis: Look for bright pink, inflamed skin covered with silvery scales (which may bleed if the scales are removed).
• Folliculitis: is is a contagious inflammation of the hair follicle.
• Fungal/bacterial ringworm. “Most medical scalp conditions relate more to general health and diet, but a contributing factor of some scalp ailments can be attributed to the products that the stylist uses on the client during chemical or styling services,” Hill says. “The stylist should do patch testing and incorporate proper scalp cleansing and exfoliation as pre-treatment services, while comprehensive consultations will assist a client in getting to the root of his or her scalp issues and can allow the salon pro to guide the client to consult with a trichologist or dermatologist if needed.”

Root Causes

Hill notes that abnormal hair and scalp conditions can be caused by one or a combination of factors: Genetics, lifestyle, diet, styling habits, environment, health, stress, hormones, and medications may all play a role. For severe problems medical testing may be required, while some issues can be tamed in-salon with treatments that encourage more circulation in the scalp, plus proper shampooing so that the scalp is being properly cleansed and balanced, Hill says. “Because scalp health is a affected by a combination of factors, it’s often challenging to isolate one particular cause,” she adds.

However, Hill outlines some possible causes of various scalp conditions:

• Dandruff: overgrowth of yeast, stress, hormones, excess oil on the scalp, immune system illnesses
• Seborrheic dermatitis: overgrowth of yeast, fatty/poor diet, stress, winter weather
• Psoriasis: bacterial or viral infections, dry air (often worse in winter), injury to skin, stress, excess alcohol consumption, weakened immune system
• Folliculitis: viruses, bacteria, inflammation of ingrown hairs
• Fungal/bacterial (contagious): pets, warm weather environments that create more wetness on the scalp

Odisho, for example, witnesses a definite uptick in dryness amid the fluctuating weather at his Chicago-based salon, while tress-taming ingredients like keratin or silicones can clog the scalp. “Scalp problems can be due to a variety of circumstances, such as the use of harsh chemicals; infrequent shampooing and overuse of dry shampoos; stress; autoimmune disorders; a poor diet lacking in vital nutrients; and environmental factors such as pollution, dry/cold weather and sun damage,” Blaisure explains. “Or the client may simply be genetically predisposed to certain scalp conditions, like eczema.” If a client is experiencing a scalp problem or hair loss, Blaisure recommends questioning the client to help determine the source of the issue and contributing factors, which can provide the stylist with information that can help her make a recommendation—e.g., an anti-dandruff shampoo, different hair products, reducing chemical processes, or seeing a medical pro for a diagnosis.

Talk Therapy

As Blaisure notes, experts agree that conversation is critical—but when it’s time to have that talk with clients, stylists may feel intimidated. How can you approach the topic in a helpful way? “Sometimes stylists are more concerned about making a client comfortable than actually solving problems,” Odisho admits. “But many clients are more likely to confide in their stylist than a doctor, so with the proper education and verbiage, stylists can feel more comfortable.”

Indeed, Hill recommends engaging with the client and making time to scan the client’s scalp and hair prior to every appointment. “Ask questions: ‘Have you noticed or experienced any changes in your scalp and hair since our last appointment?’” she advises. “When seasons change, that’s a great opportunity to inquire about any at-home hair routine changes.” Additionally, if you notice a severe issue (think bleeding or scaly patches), acknowledge what you see and ask, “Have you felt any changes in sensitivity or tenderness on your scalp?” Identify areas of concern and suggest dermatological care in severe cases.

Blaisure agrees that a consultation is the first step toward treatment— especially with a new client. “ is can be as simple as saying, ‘Tell me about your hair; have you had any challenges?’” she says. “This can easily lead into discussing what the stylist sees.” Meanwhile, with a regular client, Blaisure recommends taking advantage of that established relationship to bring up any issues with the scalp or hair, and then making recommendations based on the client’s responses.

Targeted Solutions

Naturally, the proper solutions to a scalp issue depend on the causes. Hill outlines the following possible treatments for various scalp conditions:

• Dandruff: frequent shampooing; anti-​dandruff shampoos containing selenium sulfide, salicylic acid, sulfur, coal tar or zinc; reducing stress and fats in the diet (such as chocolate and cheese)
• Seborrheic dermatitis: Anti- inflammatory, antiseptic prescriptions; frequent shampooing; medical prescriptions; a shampoo with the ingredients mentioned for dandruff
• Psoriasis: Requires medical care (possibly topical and/or oral prescriptions); frequent shampooing; or a shampoo with the ingredients mentioned for dandruff
• Folliculitis or fungal/bacterial causes: Requires medical care with oral and/or topical prescriptions 

However, note that some conditions can look similar, such as dry scalp and dandruff. “With both, we see dry flaking on the scalp, but dandruff is due to a fungal overgrowth, whereas dry scalp is often due to a lack of moisture or oil in the skin,” Blaisure explains. “If it itches and has been ongoing, it may be dandruff, and recommending an anti-dandruff shampoo would be a solution; if it’s dry scalp, using a moisturizing conditioner or scalp oil can help alleviate the dryness.”

On the other hand, Blaisure adds, if the problems are caused by chemical services or products, the client may want to reduce the use of chemicals, cut down the use of problem-causing products or switch the product regimen altogether. “Cleansing the scalp on a regular basis is always recommended—shampooing at least once a week, if not more, especially if your client is experiencing scalp issues,” Blaisure says. “When the scalp is not cleansed on a regular basis, bacteria can build up along with debris and cause inflammation on the scalp, which can lead not only to scalp problems but also to hair loss.”

Still, Hill warns, some of the proven active ingredients in those scalp treatments may have adverse affects on the hair fabric, creating a challenge for the stylist. “ is is where a certified trichologist can assist: understanding ingestibles, topicals and scalp therapies that can offer scalp relief as well as maintain the integrity of the hair,” Hill notes. “For any client who suffers from scalp conditions, use soothing salves and oils designed for sensitive scalps, and create barriers before chemical treatments.”These products are also ideal for pre-treatments before shampooing.

Finally, clients with chronic scalp issues should be encouraged to maintain minimal-heat, low-tension hairstyling routines so as not to worsen any present conditions. Hill notes that most scalp conditions can only be controlled (versus completely healed), but stylists can offer preventive scalp services and treatments to keep domes properly exfoliated and cleansed, which assists in managing proper cellular turnover while keeping the hair follicle nutrient-rich.
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This information is from LaunchPad

​Itches are inscrutable. They arrive unannounced and recede at the rake of a fingernail. But the stubborn kind—the type that skittle across your scalp with terrible regularity—tend to have an easily identifiable cause: Dandruff.

“People think dandruff has to do with dry skin, but it’s actually a problem with how the skin cells on your scalp turn over or replace themselves,” says Dr. Adam Friedman, director of dermatologic research at the Albert Einstein College of Medicine in New York. Your skin is constantly shedding layers of cells while manufacturing new ones, and Friedman says this process can be touchy. “Producing too many cells too quickly can lead to a build-up of dead skin, and this build-up itches and flakes off,” he explains. “That’s dandruff.”

What causes this over-production of skin cells? Anything that puts stress on your immune system—from cold winter temperatures to a crazy week at the office—can switch on certain genetic proteins that speed up the production of skin cells, Friedman says. (Other skin conditions—acne, eczema—also flare up when you’re stressed.)

Yeast microorganisms living on your scalp can also mess with your skin’s cell reproduction, says Dr. Anthony Rossi, a dermatologist with Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center. While usually harmless, these organisms—which live on everyone’s skin—can cause a reaction in some that leads to cell overabundance.

How do you stop the itching and flaking? Dandruff shampoo is a good start. Friedman says these shampoos work by killing scalp microorganisms and turning off the proteins that cause your skin cells to go nuts. That said, shampoos only help if you use them properly. “You’re trying to treat your scalp, so working these into your hair doesn’t do much good,” Friedman says. “You need to massage these products onto your scalp skin and leave them there for a couple minutes before rinsing.” (They aren’t usually very kind to your hair, though.)

He says dandruff shampoos typically include any one of a small number of chemicals that are all pretty much equally effective. While you could wash with them every day without over-drying your scalp, Friedman says this isn’t necessary. “Two or three times a week is plenty,” he says. “And if you don’t see improvement after a few weeks, switching to another product or using them more probably won’t do any good.”

There are many more explanations for an itchy dome. If your scalp is inflamed, red, and itchy, that may be seborrheic dermatitis—a more severe form of dandruff. “Scalp psoriasis is probably the next most common,” Friedman says. It can be hard to tell the difference between the two. But usually the flakes or “plates” of silvery gray plaques associated with scalp psoriasis are larger than dandruff flakes and tougher to brush from your clothing, he says. Scalp psoriasis could also cause some ear or face flaking.

Friedman mentions a few less-common issues: a skin disease called discoid lupus, or an allergic reaction. Rossi says an irritation to hair products like sprays or pomades is another possible itch-instigators. But trying to distinguish between those things and dandruff is really tough, Friedman says.

A good rule of thumb: If you have a red, itchy head and dandruff shampoos aren’t working after a month, see a doctor, he advises. He also cautions against waiting too long if dandruff shampoos don’t get the job done. “If you don’t treat inflammation of the scalp, there’s a chance of skin damage or hair loss,” Friedman says. “There’s often no coming back from that once it happens.”

This article is from TIME

Winter has already set in! While it is time to thank the stars for putting an end to all the sun damage that your hair was being put through, it is also time to start planning a haircare routine that is fit for winter. Summer might be gone, taking its troubles with it, but winter means a whole new set of problems that you need to deal with.
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While the season is perfect to get comfortable with a cup of hot cocoa, you can’t ignore the fact that the dry and dreary weather can wreak havoc on your hair if the right precautions aren’t taken. Your hair starts to find it harder to retain moisture, making it brittle and prone to breaking and damage, not to mention the frizz and static that often comes with your winter wardrobe. However, these are all problems that can be avoided with ease as long as you have the right hair care routine for winter.

Your hair needs all the moisture it can get during winter, and this makes conditioning a vital part of your hair care routine. Using hair oils and deep conditioning packs at least once a week becomes vital for maintaining the health of your hair. It is important that you end every wash with a conditioner. Shampoo your hair and then rinse it thoroughly. Once all the lather has been rinsed out, start applying the conditioner from the mid-lengths to the ends of your hair. Concentrate on the ends as they are the oldest and most damaged parts of your hair. Leave the conditioner in for a few minutes and then rinse it out with cool or lukewarm water. It is advised to end a wash with cool water as this will seal in the moisture and leave your hair feeling smooth and looking lustrous.
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Make these tips a part of your hair care routine and your hair won’t even notice that winter is here. A little extra care can go a long way when it comes to ensuring hair health.

Lather, rinse, repeat. We all know how to shampoo, but finding the right product to use isn’t always so simple. There are plenty of them on the market — exfoliating, volumizing, brass-busting — but clarifying shampoos have the most confusing nomenclature. Like, what is a clarifying shampoo anyway? Doesn't it do the job of a standard shampoo? What makes it different? For answers, we chatted with experts in the know for insight as to what "clarifying" really means.

First off, clarifying shampoos are deep cleansers that aim to remove residue and buildup. Hairstylist Cash Lawless notes that your stylist may suggest one based on these factors: the amount of buildup you've got, your porosity (how well your hair can absorb moisture), how often you use product, your natural sebum production, styling routine, heat usage, and if your hair is color-treated.

"Do you use leave-in hair products? Do you heat style? Most importantly, does your hair feel dull, limp, heavy, or dirty after washing it? If so, then it’s time to clarify," says Lawless. Those with color-treated hair should be extra careful with clarifying shampoos. Many formulas can change your color — especially deposited color — so Lawless suggests clarifying if needed before getting a dye job.

Clarifying shampoos have a reputation for stripping hair, because, well, they're meant to eliminate buildup. Cosmetic chemist Ginger King says that many clarifying shampoos use chelating agents like EDTA and tetrasodium EDTA, which latch on to metal ions that may be in your water. "[Their] function is to 'chelate' (form a bond with) metal ions in water so that the water is softer and better for the hair," she says. She notes that while EDTAs are less harsh on your strands than other surfactants, that doesn't mean they can't be stripping and drying. This is why some brands add moisturizing agents to their clarifiers.

But there are some clarifying shampoos without EDTAs in their formulas. King mentions that EDTAs can cause sensitivity for some people over time, but other than that, "there are no health concerns." So, the point remains: Use clarifying shampoos sparingly and only when you need them.

As for how often you should use them, "It’s a personal decision,” says Lawless. "But in general, I recommend every two weeks for those who use styling products, [as well as] heat and who don’t wash every day."
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Now that you've got the lowdown on clarifying shampoos, check out the ones hairstylists recommend.

Aging, as we know it, is certainly a beautiful thing in its own right, however, it can also be unbelievably frustrating. You find your perfect remedy to one ailment, only to be struck a week later by the next in what seems like a never-ending saga of bodily changes. So what is it about getting older and your hair changing so much, – we’re talking thinning, color change, coarseness, and curl – and what on earth are we supposed to do about it?
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The good news is, it may be somewhat reversible. By that, I mean your hair may be negatively reacting to one or more factors in your life that can be easily changed. And while it may still be genetic, there are a number of things you might be able to do to repair your otherwise unruly hair to get it back to its former glory.

One way to combat this is to introduce naturally estrogen-saturated foods into your diets, such as nuts, seeds, plant-based proteins like tofu and soybeans, berries, and red wine. While post-partum hair loss may seem extreme, it is temporary and simply due to your body getting back on track. Of course, if you think this is due to a change in birth control, talk to your doctor about what your other options may be.

Environmental Hazards

Have you ever noticed that your hair seems to have a mind of its own on a humid day? That’s because water molecules are like tiny magnets that are pulling on your hair creating a lot more hydrogen bonds than would happen in a dryer climate. This causes it to react in different ways, i.e. become wavy or curly. Hard water can also wreak havoc on your locks, as it may be contaminated with chlorine, calcium, magnesium, or other harsh chemicals. This can cause your hair to seem dry and dull.

A simple way to correct both of these is to use a hydrating shampoo. These shampoos and conditioners are not only hydrating, bringing life back to your hair, but can also be incredibly restorative. They can work to repair breakage and split ends and strengthen hair against future damage.

Loss of Collagen and Protein

While collagen is most known for its ability to keep wrinkles and cellulite at bay, it is also a key player in the heath of your hair. As we age our bodies naturally begin to produce less collagen. Surprisingly this change typically begins around age 25, but as we now know, the hair follicle plays a huge role in the texture of our hair. So, as our skin loses elasticity and the follicle becomes weaker, it’s not so surprising that hair is the next thing affected. Collagen acts as an antioxidant, which your body uses to fight free radicals, or the buildup from environmental pollutants on the scalp, then causing damage and thinning to the hair itself. It also may lead to premature graying.
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Along with this, too much or a lack of protein in your diet may be the culprit. Protein functions to support fine or medium hair, giving it strength and silkiness. However, if you have thick, curly hair, too much protein can actually do the exact opposite resulting in rough, brittle, or dry strands.

There are a few ways to introduce more collagen into your routine, including shampoos, Collagen infused vita-gummies, and powders you can mix into food such as smoothies, coffee, and homemade energy bites like these raspberry chocolate ones. As far as protein, the suggested amount of daily intake is about 0.36 grams of protein per pound of body weight. However, you know your body best, so don’t be afraid to experiment and see what works best for you.

Routine, Routine, Routine

We all know that too much stress for too long can catapult us into premature aging resulting in hair loss, hair thinning, and hair turning gray. What you may not realize is the hair re-growth cycle lasts anywhere from four to seven years, meaning every four to seven years each strand of hair is completely replaced by a new one. This new mane is likely to have its own set of properties that may or may not look and feel like the old one.

We are constantly bombarding our hair with heat tools, styling products, over-brushing, and over-cutting. Heat and color can damage the hair, while overuse of products can clog pores and cause damage to the follicles themselves. While your body is taking care of the hair by re-growing it, you can try the New Dawn scalp cleanser from Better Not Younger to give it that extra boost. Note this can also help with those free radicals we mentioned earlier.
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There are an alarming amount of seemingly minuscule factors that can cause the texture of your hair to change. Although certain changes are inevitable, like thinning and graying, there are certainly ways to slow these processes down, and even reverse some premature effects. The top things I recommend paying close attention to our protein intake, if you’re coloring or heat treating your hair often and the types of products you’re putting on your hair. If none of these seem to be the culprit try combatting texture changes with specially formulated products, diet, and supplements, as they can make an incredible difference. And of course, don’t forget to drink water.